Silab, the French manufacturer of cosmetic active ingredients, has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying active developed specifically for menopausal skin. The launch is built around what the company describes as a deficiency of ferritinophagy — the process that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet the needs of cells — in skin during menopause.
Iron release and what Silab calls metallo-aging
Silab says a novel modelling study on menopausal skin allowed it to demonstrate the shortfall in this mechanism. A deficiency of ferritinophagy observed during menopause is said to induce a lack of bioavailable iron, which the company links to premature ageing of the skin, a phenomenon it terms metallo-aging. UV radiation is presented as an aggravating factor: exposure favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and causing significant oxidative stress.
Metallomia is designed to act on both sides of that picture. By relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, the ingredient is intended to facilitate the provision of iron and to relaunch the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it is also meant to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.
Claimed effects in volunteers
According to Silab, this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. From 14 days, the skin of Caucasian volunteers is described as revitalised, with the skin barrier reinforced and the complexion more unified and radiant. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were also reported to be significantly reduced after 28 days. In addition, when applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the active ingredient is said to prevent lipid peroxidation and to limit the appearance of redness within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow root and a traced supply chain
For the development of Metallomia, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages, and set up a traced supply chain with French partners. That supply has been validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the mucilage content of the roots, the company developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Formulation and compliance
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended in all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is available in aqueous solution, which Silab says makes it easy to formulate. The ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and it meets international cosmetics regulations covering Europe, the USA, China and Japan, among others.